Like Peru and Bolivia were home to the Incas, Central America hosted another powerful pre-Columbian civilization: the Mayas. Renowned for their scripts and astronomical knowledge, their existence has been traced back to 2.000 BC all the way until the sixteenth century when the Spanish Empire colonized the region. As they expanded before countries were created, there are vestiges of the Maya culture in Mexico, Belize and Guatemala - and even in Honduras and Salvador.
My advice: visit as many countries as you can! Either you rent a car or take a bus, there are plenty of options to link the Mayan sites. Don’t know where to start? Here are my 5 favorite ruins.
#1 Kabah (Mexico)
This site is located on the Ruta Puuc, in the North of Yucatan, between Merida and Campeche. It’s one of the driest regions, and Kabah was dedicated to the rain god – Chaac.
The energy there is unique, and that’s why it is my #1 place to visit. The Palace of Masks has a display of more than 300 Chaac masks; at its feet lay a few water wells, all embodying the desperation for water and rain of Kabah’s former residents.
Also, Kabah is very small, you can actually climb up to the palaces to get a closer look of the Chaac carvings, and there were only 3 other tourists when I went!
Entrance fee: 55 Mexican pesos
To get there: I had booked a tour including Kabah and Uxmal, leaving from Merida. I wouldn’t recommend it, as the tour guides rushes you to get to the next place, and those sites are pretty self-explanatory. If you can, rent a car and go your own way.
More on the Ruta Puuc here
#2 Tikal (Guatemala)
Tikal is the biggest archeological site of the Maya civilization – and it’s a must see. It encircles 575 square kilometers of jungle and thousands of ruined structures. Around the eighth century, Tikal was the greatest city in the Mayan world, gathering around 90.000 inhabitants!
Besides the animals you’ll meet there, the Temples are amazingly well preserved. On opposite sides of the Great Plaza, almost defying yet protecting each other, the Temple of the Grand Jaguar and the Temple of the Masks stand still, facing each other for nearly 2.000 years.
A lot of travel agencies offer to watch the sunrise from the top of one of Tikal’s pyramids: it is a truly magical moment. Even if I wasn’t lucky with the weather that morning, as clouds and rain packed the sky, I could still hear the howler monkeys, birds and other wild animals waking up. Let the stones fill your body with their ancestral energy while you’re surrounded by nature’s unique awakening.
Entrance fee: 150 Qz. Get more info about the sunrise tour directly at your hostel, or negotiate prices in town!
To get there: Sleep around the Petén Itzá lake, in the cute town of Flores for example and book a tour.
My recommendation: Hostel La Casa de Grethel - HostelWorld
More about Tikal: tikalnationalpark.org
If curiosity has been aroused you, check out this article about recent discoveries in Tikal.
#3 Uxmal (Mexico)
Uxmal is the most important Maya complex in the Puuc region; it is really well preserved and renovated. It stands out from the others as its main pyramid has an oval or elliptical shape (instead of a rectilinear plan).
The Pyramid of the Magician is the first edifice you see when entering the site: I felt so small! It is forbidden to climb it now, and know that the hole on the South side was made by archeologists – the entrance is located on the other side.
The site presents a variety of structures: ritual centers, temples, a ballcourt, you can easily spend a few hours discovering it. It’s less surrounded by the jungle than Tikal, therefore conveying a bigger sense of space. Many animals (turtles, snakes, etc) are carved on the structures. Climb to the Governor’s Palace, perched on a hill, and get a view of the entire site.
Entrance fee: 309 pesos total from 2 separate required tickets (75 + 234 = 309 pesos).
To go there: I had booked a tour including Kabah and Uxmal, leaving from Merida. I wouldn’t recommend it, as the tour guides rushes you to get to the next place, and those sites are pretty self-explanatory. If you can, rent a car and go your own way.
More on the Ruta Puuc here
#4 Xunantunich (Belize)
Located between Belize City and Tikal, it’s a stop to add to your list if you’re visiting this region. I particularly enjoyed its easy access and sense of exploration as you can do it all on your own. The little museum at the entrance gives enough keys to understand the mysteries around those ruins.
The site is tiny, the main mural is well-renovated and there aren’t many tourists. Only a few hours are necessary to make the most out of this site; excavations are still in process and there might be some new temples in Xunantunich in a few years!
From the highest temple, El Castillo, you’ll have an amazing 360° view on the Belizean and Guatemalan jungle. You can visit the chambers – try not to disturb the bats which have invested the place. Go as early as possible as there’s not much shadow and the heat is scorching.
Entrance fee: 10 BZ$ (around 5 US$)
Itinerary: Belize City > San Jose Succotz > Xunantunich > Guatemala
Withdraw cash upon arrival to San Jose Succotz! Nobody accepts credit cards there and there’s no ATM before the border. Take plenty of food and water.
To go to San Jose Succotz: Take the bus from Belize City to San Jose Succotz, ask the driver to stop at The Trek Stop (they usually know it). Download the surrounding map on Google Maps and check where you’re at as the bus moves forward.
Sleep: The Trek Stop / Tropical Wings Nature Center - Tripadvisor
To go to the ruins: Walk from the Trek Stop to the river, cross it: there’s a boat carrying cars, horses and people across, operated by a man drawing a rope – just wait till you see it! For statistical reasons, another man will ask for your name and country of origin. Follow the path until the entrance: a light ascent of 1.5 kilometers and little shadow – be careful of the heat.
To go to Guatemala :
Take a cab on the river banks, it’s a short ride until the border with Guatemala. When leaving Belize, you have to pay a tax of 40 BZ$ (around 20 US$), so withdraw cash for this as well! Once you’ve crossed the border, take a bus to Flores, from where you can visit the Tikal site.
#5 Palenque (Mexico)
Palenque is smaller than Tikal yet more impressive in terms of architecture, structures, carvings, and it is the most important Mayan site in Mexico.
You can visit a number of temples and structures, including the temple of the Queen and its narrow corridors; go around the Palace and spot every detail carved into the impressive walls. Reaching the groups of structures called “Grupo de las Cruces”: climb to the Temple of the Cross, enjoy the view and try to decrypt the carved inscriptions!
As you go out of the site, stroll along some uncovered ruins (only 10% of Palenque has been excavated), and end your visit near the waterfalls running deep in the jungle.
On your way out, don’t miss the museum! First, there’s air-conditioning and it’s always welcome after walking under a scorching heat for a few hours. Second, it displays one of the most impressive tombs of the Mayan age: Pakal the Great. A scheme explains how and where it was found – and the explanations are translated in English! The Queen’s mask is another jewel in this rich museum.
Entrance fee: around 105 Mexican pesos (70 admission fee + 35 entrance fee).
To get there : Take a bus to Palenque City, sleep at the site entrance before exploring it the next morning. The Kin Balam Cabañas are located at the end of the road going from Palenque city to the ruins, which are at walking distance.
Tip: When arriving in Palenque city, make sure to withdraw money to pay for your nights, the entrance to the ruins, taxi, and any food you’ll need. Once you arrive at Las Cabañas, there is no ATM unless going back to the city center.
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